– Good morning everyone, it’s Mark Wiens. I’m in Manila, Philippines. And this is just completely random, but we are going over to
a friend’s house today to eat some home-cooked… She’s invited us over
to eat some home-cooked Filipino food. My mouth is watering, I’m ready to eat, and I can’t wait to try some of the dishes that her mom is gonna cook for us today. We are in a taxi now, on our
way to my friend’s house. And her name is Edzen. This is just a completely random story. Just earlier, about one
hour earlier this morning, she wrote me a message and said, “If you can come over to my
house, that would be great. “My mom is cooking.” And so, since we didn’t
have anything to do today, we’re just… We jumped in a taxi,
we are on our way now. She just sent me a photo on my phone and her mom is already cooking. Ooh, I can’t wait. We are almost to her house, and her house is located in an
area of Manila called Tondo. – [Driver] Small talipapa. – [Mark] Small talipapa?
– [Driver] Small market. – [Mark] Talipapa. – I’m so happy to see you.
– [Mark] Hi. – Every morning, she goes just there. This is Mark, and Ying.
– [Ying] Hi. – But we’re gonna go to our house. – [Mark] Hi. Nice to meet you. That’s okay. Thank you so much. (laughs) Well, thank you so much for inviting us. – I am so happy.
– [Mark] This is amazing. – It’s been like what, since 2009. – Was it in 2009 or 2010? – 2009. – 2009, whoa, that’s a long time ago. And we haven’t seen each other since. – Yes. – And we met in Sagada.
– In Sagada, yeah. – I was traveling by myself. – Yeah, and you were eating cabbage, or some fresh fruits or vegetables. – And you were traveling with your friend. – Yeah, my best friend. – Did we meet in the cave? I think we met in a cave, right? Or did we go together–
– Yeah, we were on our way to the cave, and we have
to pay a tour guide. And because we wanted
to share, it was like, “Hey, do you wanna go with us and we’re gonna save some money?” So, it’s for like 500, and three of us shared
the 500 fee for the tour. – Oh yeah, so we shared a guide
to go into a cave in Sagada. – [Edzen] She also
cooked this this morning. – [Mother] Tulingan, fish tulingan. – [Mark] Fish tulingan. – [Mother] With papis.
– [Mark] Okay. – [Mother] And dried kamias. – [Mark] Oh, it’s the whole fish in there. – [Edzen] She doesn’t wanna stop cooking. – [Mark] She loves to cook. – [Edzen] She wakes up
at two in the morning and prepares the food. And then breakfast of this
whole community, actually, she cooks it, yeah.
– [Mark] She cooks for the whole community? – [Edzen] Yeah, sort of this area. All the kids going to school,
people going to the office. – You’re gonna cook dinuguan? – Yes.
– Oh! Dinuguan is a Filipino blood stew. – Like adobo. – It’s one of my favorite Filipino dishes. – Adobo?
– Dinuguan, dinuguan. I love to eat dinuguan. And then she’s also already
prepared some other dishes. A fish in a banana leaf. Oh, I can’t wait. – Spicy.
– [Mark] Oh, spicy is good. I love spicy. In order to make dinuguan, she first sauteed some chopped
onions and garlic in a pan with a little bit of oil. Next, she had precooked some
pork which was already cut into bite-sized pieces and already incredibly
tender that she added. She’s just been simmering
that pork with those onions and now, vinegar. A lot of vinegar. Finally, it wouldn’t be
dinuguan without blood. And I’m talking like an entire
pot full of raw pig’s blood. The blood is what gives
dinuguan its uniqueness and is the base of the sauce. Lastly, in order to season, she added in some ground
black pepper and salt and a few sliced up green chiles. And then, green chiles. And then, she said that
you don’t wanna stir it. You just leave it… You just let it sit and
simmer for 30 minutes, with no stirring? When it’s finished cooking, it’s gonna be like a thick, curdled blood sauce. Don’t let the blood throw you off because it’s such a wonderful,
rich, and delicious dish. I love it so much. Edzen’s mom, she’s legendary
in this neighborhood for cooking, so I just want
to say that it is a huge honor to be invited to Edzen’s house, and thank you very much to her
whole family for having me. It’s really a… This is really special. This is the dinuguan. So Edzen’s mom, I’m gonna
call her Aling Zeni. And she… This is the dish that I saw her cook. This is the dinuguan,
the Filipino blood stew. There’s pork in here,
there are chiles in here, and she added like, a
half a bottle of vinegar plus a good like, liter of raw blood. And then it cooked down, simmered down into this like rich, look at that sauce. Oh, it’s just… It’s just black and rich
and chocolatey-looking. Onto my rice with some more of that sauce. Okay, I gotta just get
some of the chile in there. Oh, that is delicious. I love the sour flavor of that vinegar. And the blood has been simmered
down and reduced so much that it’s almost, it’s
like a thick, rich gravy. – [Mother] Ginataang kuhol. – [Mark] Ginataang kuhol. This is the dish that
Edzen sent me a photo of earlier in the morning,
a couple hours ago. She sent me a photo, said her
mom was cooking this dish. I knew we had to come here immediately. There are whole chiles in here again, too. And look at that coconut
milk that’s just kinda slightly thickened and you
can see all that rich flavor. So you can sort of just hit it out? (laughs) Falls out of your hands.
– [Edzen] Yeah, you have to do that. – [Mark] Oh, you have to
go like this to get it out? – [Edzen] Yes. – [Mark] Oh actually, I
can see him right there. Maybe I can just grab him. (laughs) Oh, yeah. – [Edzen] Bit more power.
– [Mark] More power? – [Edzen] Yeah. – [Mark] Oh, there he goes. There he goes, okay. Here he is. And with some of that… Oh, I want some of that
piece of that chile as well in this bite. That bite of snail. Oh, that’s nice and meaty. Hey what’s up, man? No, no, no, you can come. – [Edzen] Come here and join us. – [Mark] You can come, you can come. The snail is tender, and
then just a slightly like, gelatinous taste to it, or texture to it. But then it’s wrapped up in coconut milk. It is a little bit sour-tasting. You can taste the onions in
there, the garlic in there. And also, you can taste the kinda sourness from those green chiles as well. So this is one of her mom’s
specialties that she cooked. Fish with spices and then wrapped in a… She said it was boiled, I think, right? Boiled, it’s boiled?
– [Edzen] Yeah. – [Mark] Okay, and then
boiled in a banana leaf. I can already smell the aroma of those banana leaves, especially. They have like, an
embedded banana leaf aroma. Oh, wow. It kind of has a very firm texture to it. It has a very salty taste to it. It almost tastes like the
fish are kinda salted, preserved a little bit. But very… Maybe they’ve been boiled in
saltwater for a very long time, like a brine taste to it. It’s salty, and yeah, very flavorful. I love it. And you can–
– [Edzen] This adds flavor to it.
– [Mark] Oh, what is that? – [Edzen] It’s called kamias. – [Mark] This is one of the
ingredients in the fish, and that’s what’s giving
it some of the flavor. So maybe I’ll taste it with
some more of that fish. Try this, tree cucumber. Oh! Kinda slimy. And then it’s kinda salty. That tastes like a pickle, actually. It’s like a pickle. I guess that’s a cucumber. I think that dinuguan,
though, and the snails, those are just spectacular. But nothing beats home-cooking. Micah–
– Lola. – [Mark] Lola, say hello to Lola. (laughs) – [Mark] And then for
dessert, we have biko. And this is sticky rice with coconut, I think coconut milk and sugar and then also toasted,
or fried coconut as well. Oh, wow. You can feel the grains of the
rice, but at the same time, it has kind of a pudding texture to it. Very coconutty. Sweet, but not overly sweet. And you can also really taste that fried, or really, kinda like
caramelized coconut on top. Is this turon? – [Edzen] Turon, yes. – [Mark] You just grab it?
– [Edzen] Uh-huh. – [Mark] This is called banana Q. Salamat. Caramelized with sugar, banana Q. This is a popular Filipino
street food snack. Oh, it’s hot. I wasn’t expecting it to be so hot. It’s like, really fresh. The banana is very, very
gooey, soft on the inside. And then that is like caramelized… I think it’s like caramelized sugar on the outside of the banana. (people talking) (speaking Filipino) – [Mark] We just stopped
to eat some ginataang. Oh, ginataang halo-halo. And there’s tapioca in here,
there’s bananas in here, there’s sticky rice. Actually, I’m just gonna… I’m just gonna pick it up. It’s like a pudding-like consistency. You can see the tapioca,
you can see pieces of banana and then she added in some
kinda crusty sticky rice. So I’ll try to get… I’ll try to get a little bit of everything in one bite. I think this is a sweet dessert. Oh, yeah. It is sweet, but it has a… It’s like a tapioca pudding. You can taste the coconut
milk in there as well. The banana is sour, and then the rice is kinda crunchy. Also, there’s some Karo in here as well, which also gives it a starchy texture. Tondo is known throughout
Manila for being– – [Edzen] Dangerous.
– It’s a little bit dangerous?
– Yeah. – And kind of a, pretty poor area, right?
– [Edzen] Yeah. – [Mark] But at the same
time, it’s really… It really has an amazing
community feel to it. Everyone around here knows each other. Everyone, I mean the majority
of people are very friendly and very kind. What I like about an area
like, a place like this, is that you see so many creative people, so many people doing
things making a living from all sorts of creative methods and doing what they can
to live and survive. And so this is a… It’s also a place of hope and amazing people. And lots and lots of stories. Hello. – Hello.
– Hi. – [Mark] Hi, how are you?
– Hello. – [Mark] Hi, what’s your name? – Jadim. – [Mark] Jaden.
– Jadim. – [Mark] Jaben. Nice to meet you, what’s up man? Nice to meet you, nice to meet you. (kids giggling) – [Mark] Bye-bye. – (in unison) Bye-bye. – [Edzen] Open, want have a picture it. – [Mark] Oh, thank you. Oh, cool, okay, all right. – [Edzen] He’s gonna
put some salt, I think. (speaks Filipino) – [Mark] And coconut. Is that salt or sugar? – [Edzen] A little. It’s salt.
– [Mark] Okay. Okay, salamat. (bell dings) It’s corn, and I saw he cooked
it with lemongrass as well. And then he just piled on some
coconut, shredded coconut. It’s okay. He piled on some shredded coconut. Thank you Edzen, for holding the corn. And I’ll try. It’s almost like creamy
corn down below there. Oh, with all that coconut,
I want all that coconut. – [Edzen] It’s hot.
– [Mark] It’s hot? Okay. Look at that. Oh, I lost my coconut. Here we go. Oh, yeah. I think it’s salt. It’s not sweet at all. It’s like cream corn with just
pure shredded coconut on top. I like that a lot. Kinda starchy, and kinda filling. Every few minutes, somebody
comes around selling something. This is an amazing area. And so this is an amazing
auntie who sells fish. She has smoked fish, she
has bangus, which has been, I think it’s marinated in vinegar. (speaks Filipino) And then she’s been selling… How long has she been selling this, coming around?
– Since 1978. – Since 1978, she has been
coming around selling, selling here in the neighborhood. Amazing, she’s a legend. (laughs) – [Mark] Salamat. – [Edzen] In English, I don’t know. But it’s called kutsinta. – [Mark] Kutsinta. (speaks Filipino) – [Edzen] This one’s sweet. This is yema. It’s like a milk. (speaks Filipino) – [Mark] Wow.
– [Edzen] Kutsinta with yema. – [Mark] Is it like dulce de leche? No.
– [Edzen] Yeah, this one is made of milk.
– [Mark] Okay, salamat. – [Man] Salamat.
– [Mark] Salamat. – [Edzen] Kutsinta with yema. – Kutsinta–
– With yema. – And the brown stuff is yema. You cannot sit in Edzen’s
house for very long without another street food coming. Literally, that was just like, a minute between the last street food. And then the brown topping
that he put on is called– – [Edzen] Yema.
– [Mark] Yema. Oh! Yeah, okay. I was thinking that tastes
like dulce de leche, which is popular throughout
South America, I think. It’s like a reduced sweet cream that’s kinda, has a caramel taste to it. The base of this, the handheld part of it is kind of gelatinous, kind of like a, kind of like a gelatinous rice cake. Hello. (kids talking) – [Mark] I think isaw, which
are grilled intestines, chicken intestines, which
are on the grill right now and they are hissing away. But I think they are one of the best Filipino street food snacks
you can possibly eat. Oh, they’re just sizzling and
popping away like popcorn. Can I grab an adidas?
– [Woman] Yeah, help yourself. Got mostly isaw, which are
the chicken intestines, which I think are some of
the most superior skewers you can get at a stall like this. And then also got
something called a helmet, which, it might be kinda self-explanatory, but I’ll show it to you when it’s ready. And then also adidas, what’s known locally as adidas. And we got it in a little to-go sack and we’re gonna bring it
back to the house to eat. But I asked her to save one, one skewer of the isaw, which
are the chicken intestines, this is one of the
greatest grilled skewers on the streets here in the Philippines. And I’m just gonna stand here and eat it. And you can dip it, oh yes. This is vinegar with chiles and onions. And you can just dip it once. And no double-dipping, just dip it once and get as much of the… Scoop up some onions and chiles. It’s literally right off
the grill, so it’s crispy. It’s kinda like, soft on the inside. And with that vinegar, those
chiles on top, those onions. This is the grilled snack of champions. They just go down so easily. Hello, hello. (kids talking and laughing) – [Mark] Bye-bye, thank you. Bye-bye.
– Bye-bye. (kids talking) – [Mark] Okay, I’m going for the helmet. And this is not only a helmet, but the whole neck is attached too. They also had just straight helmets. And if you didn’t know by now, a helmet in the Philippines
refers to the chicken heads. Now, along with eating all the neck meat, chicken neck meat is delicious. And then you also eat the head. And Edzen is explaining to
me that one of the best parts of eating helmets is the
brain of the chicken. So, may as well start off with that. All right, chicken brains. Oh, yeah, it’s quite soft. But then you wanna take off… Oh, some juices. Oh, there it is. The creamy brain on the inside there. You can see that whiteness. Oh, wow. Oh, that’s creamy. It’s like cream cheese. Oh, yeah. That’s what eating a helmet is all about. That just exploded with juices. Next up, I’ll try the adidas. And that refers to chicken feet. They always kinda remind
me of baseball mitts. Yeah, chicken feet have
never been my favorite. They are… They do taste good, gnawing on the bones. But there’s just not a
whole lot to eat on them. These are both okay, but I’m really all
about that isaw, though. The chicken intestines,
that’s where it’s at. Let me have a chicken intestine. Oh, and that vinegar. That vinegar makes it really good. Oh, yeah. This reigns supreme on the grill. We just caught a taxi,
we’re heading out of Tondo. And that was one of the
most amazing experiences I’ve had so far in Manila. It was… Not only was the home-cooked
food just incredible, and I wanna say a huge
thank you, by the way, to Edzen, Edzen’s mom,
and her whole family for warmly and generously
inviting us to their home. That was fantastic. But it was also just an
amazing eye-opening experience and to just come into this neighborhood, and Tondo is known as… It doesn’t have a good
reputation in Manila. But it’s also, at the same time, what’s really disappointing is that the majority of the people
are just amazing and friendly and really welcoming. But it’s just a couple of people that have to give the entire
area a bad reputation. But met some amazing people,
had some delicious food, and that was just a completely random day but it turned into a
fascinating experience. Thank you very much for
watching this video. Please remember to give it a
thumbs up if you enjoyed it. I’d love to hear from you in
the comment section below. And I wanna say goodbye from Tondo and Manila. Thank you for watching this video. And if you’re not already subscribed, make sure you click subscribe now for lots more food and travel videos. And I will see you on the next video.