Good morning, we’re in Amatrice.
I’m Gabriele Perilli, La Conca restaurant. Good morning, I’m Serva Maurizio, chef in
“La Trota” restaurant in Rivodutri, Rieti province. Good morning, I’m Angelo Troiani,
executive chef in restaurant “Il Convivio” in Rome, Via dei Soldati.
G: We’re here to watch videos about Amatriciana, the most popular in the world. G: Oh, please.
A: Can I say something? On my school book in the state hospitality training institute there’s both onion and garlic in Amatriciana.
G: I worked with lots of chefs from Abruzzo, I’m 81 years old. These people
truly knew their job – true Italian chefs, where the red
Amatriciana was created. If there’s onion, garlic and parsley,
there’s no cheese! A: Maybe they have rolled guanciale there. Do they
produce it? G: They might, but I never used it. A: And anyway, it isn’t aged at all.
M: It’s the first time I see it… A: The skin is white… A: Garlic, as well. Now it’s really too much.
1, 2, 3… 5 cloves of garlic! G: I used whole tomato fillets
more than once. It’s good in this way as well, it’s more natural.
M: If we consider it, she’s using for 300 grams of pasta: 200 grams
of onion, 300 grams of tomato… G: It’s a big messy mixture!
M: In the end, pasta becomes a side dish, something marginal.
G: I wonder, are they really making it this way? Really?
A: Of course… A: Have you seen that?
M: It’s “slightly” cooked.
G: It’s steamed! M: All thickened up. M: Did you hear that? Delicious!
G: Delicious! A: She also put Pecorino!
M: Well, yeah, absolutely. In the end, she made something out of it.
M: With fake guanciale… A: Let’s go on! M: Such a lean meat. A: In my opinion, he didn’t find
guanciale, so he took a piece of fresh meat, there’s coarse salt and pepper on top
and it’s still leaking water. He bought it the day before. It’s not guanciale! G: This is true! Shepherds used guanciale
as a substitute for oil. Guanciale was fat. It used to be white, not a red pasta.
A: It’s what we call today… G: Gricia!
A: For sure, shepherds didn’t bring with a bottle of oil in the mountains…
G: They didn’t have it! A: Isn’t the fat from guanciale enough?
G: It’s more than enough! Of course!
A: I want to keep the same flavor, so I always use the same proportion
in fat and lean meats. It doesn’t depend on how the guanciale is. I always make sure there’s the same
balance, so it’s always the same. For example, I never add oil
as it gives a bitter base.
M: Let’s go on! G: That’s not guanciale, it’s bacon. It
shouldn’t be cut like that, those are slices. Guanciale should be cut in cubes, in
julienne. When you eat spaghetti or bucatini, guanciale must
blend into the forkful of pasta you are eating. The bite of guanciale
should be tasted together with pasta in the moment you eat it. In this way
it’s not amatriciana, it’s just a mixture. M: Let’s proceed. M: He’s even using tomato paste… A: If a licence would be needed, would you
leave that to him or just destroy it? G: I’d say: prison! Giving the
chocolate keys of the cell to a child, so he can eat them and lock him in.
A: What about the wine?
G: Wine should be added before, when you’re browning guanciale. But it’s
just a drizzle to simmer and reduce! A: Have you seen that, as well? Such a nice pasta.
G: That is more than overcooked, it’s wilt. A: I didn’t expect it, pasta al dente it’s quite
popular worldwide, right now. But then again… A: Basil!
G: It’s not correct! Pasta is overcooked, oversalted, as well. You can see this messy mix.
M: It’s pasta cakes! The feeling is of a mess in every recipe, with a ton
of things on top that is something completely different…
A: Should we go on? [Video]
Amatriciana: Let’s talk about ingredients: 500 gr
of bucatini, 400 gr of peeled tomatoes, Pecorino, 3 to 4 slices of guanciale.
It’s almost a sweet-tasting pasta, without being sweet as
it’s a mixture between sweet and salty.
A: Can I say that I actually agree with this? Amatriciana is a blend
between sweet and salty.
M: Because of the fat. A: And the onion. We’ll see, but this sweet initial base is present.
[Video] I’m removing this part, so the guanciale must be pink, completely. Don’t be
stingy. I removed all of this, but look at the difference in the color.
It looks like a different thing. It’s a pasta that was used to be made
during transhumance, when things couldn’t be carried.
Pecorino can be preserved easily, as it’s an aged cheese. I’m taking
half of the onion and placing it here, brushing
the surface of the pan. G: I’ve never seen this kind of
procedure: brushing half an onion inside a pan before adding guanciale. What is that for? What kind of fragrance
does it release? It’s useless. [Video] A drizzle of oil.
M: I’ve never added oil. A: I agree. The fat is more than
enough, and as he was saying if you’re adding onion to give a sweet
base and a pleasant sensation, oil takes you on the other side, the bitter.
[Video] I would cut a thin layer like this, giving it a bit of sweetness
without bothering anyone’s taste. M: You should be more certain of what
you’re doing. If you’re adding onion, then add it. If you’re not sure and look
for a compromise, then it’s no good. Let’s proceed.
[Video] Guanciale should be simmered
with white wine to give it acidity, I’m drizzling it quickly. M: You’re not giving it any
acidity with white wine, lightly drizzling and reducing.
A: It’s much more flavor than acidity. You’re giving acidity with vinegar. If it evaporates,
white wine doesn’t leave a trace. [Video] I’m throwing bucatini in
salted water. I’m moving it here.
G: If you remove guanciale, that gives taste to the tomato, the aroma to season the
sauce in the right way it should be done… M: So, you don’t remove it, at all.
G: There’s no way! [Video] I mostly removed the fat
that laid down, then we proceed with peeled tomato. I’m adding
some fat: here we are. I’m adding bucatini inside the sauce.
As you can see, it’s still hard. M: Of course, pasta…
A: He’s playing it safe!
[Video] As some people say, bucatini are treacherous. A pinch of sugar, always,
with the tomato, because of its acidity. M: Pasta contains starches and has a sweet
tendency, guanciale contains fat, so it has a sweet tendency. The only element
of contrast is Pecorino, and it’s quite robust in taste.
Sugar, in my opinion, on the tomato, unless the tomato is incredibly acid,
should not be added. Sugars, starches and animal fats
are already enough to balance the dish. [Video] Chili, just a small piece. This is what
I like, but you can add it to taste. The cheese that should be added here is
Roman Pecorino, with a saltiness that almost touches sweetness, but with a hint of spicy.
G: If it’s spicy, it can’t be sweet, if it’s sweet it’s not spicy. What is he saying?
[Video] Just taste it. It’s something that must be tried.
A: He knows well how, nowadays, Roman Pecorino industrially made are often too salty.
Handmade ones are less salty than industrial products, in fact
he explains it well: ask before about tasting it.
[Video] Some pepper. As a friend
and master chef says, Roman Pecorino must be grated by hand, otherwise it just looks like it’s coming from a supermarket. The worst
thing that can happen to a chef is that someone tells your dish is
too salty. It’s really humiliating. As you see, I didn’t make it very red. I’m adding some
more guanciale as a garnish. Enjoy! G: There’s no onion. Pepper and all aromas
must be added when making the sauce, otherwise it’s not uniform, a true Amatriciana.
M: Well, it’s clear we’re talking here about another kind of thing, compared to
what we’ve seen before. There’s knowledge, he’s a chef from Rome
that perfectly know the dish, so we can say it’s quite faithful
to the concept of traditional Amatriciana, with some minor re-interpretations.
A: As Maurizio was saying, you can see that there’s knowledge, mostly
what I’ve been underlining all along: quality of products, and there’s
a lot of it in here. Some passages are shareable, in some others I would have done differently, maybe getting to a
closer result in the interpretation. He maintained tradition from one side,
from the other he wanted to innovate and this is part of my Amatriciana,
as well. I like this and I’d love to taste it! M: We’ve watched the most popular
video on Amatriciana worldwide, a recipe that is discussed all over the world.
A: Well, then we’re waiting for your comments, as well!
G: Greetings from Amatrice, to the whole world!