Tony Gemignani | Chefs at Google

Tony Gemignani | Chefs at Google


ANDREW PERLICH: All
right, welcome everybody to Google’s Kitchen
Sink, the download on food– Google’s
teaching kitchen. My name is Andrew Perlich. I’m the cafe manager here
at Kitchen Sink Cafe. And it is my distinct
pleasure to welcome today Chef Tony Gemignani over here. In Chef Tony’s 24
years making pizza, he’s become an 11-time pizza
world champion, including being the first and
only Triple Crown winner for baking at
the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy. He’s the chef and owner
of Tony’s Pizza Napolitana in San Francisco. You may have seen
him on Jay Leno. You may have seen him also
on “Good Morning America,” and you may have also
seen him as a regular on the Food Network. He’s going to show us how
to make some pizzas today, so everybody please join me in
welcoming Chef Tony Gemignani. [APPLAUSE] TONY GEMIGNANI: Who likes pizza? Who loves pizza? Nice. 24 years ago is when I started. Anybody make dough at home? Anyone trying to make
pizza dough at home? Some of you? Most of you? Nice. So that’s always a challenge–
making pizza dough at home. Wanna hold that for me? All right. [LAUGHTER] Don’t get scared. Don’t throw it back. Don’t throw it back. I’m going to teach you guys
how to make a basic recipe. This is the a dough recipe
that I use in my restaurant, at Tony’s, and actually
all my restuarants. It’s a little different,
but it’s about 99% there. We’re going to use a
starter in this dough. So if some of you don’t
know what a starter is, we’re going to use
a poolish, which is a starter that has equal
parts flour and water in it. So if I were to take one pound
of flour, one pound of water, and a minute amount of
yeast, mix it and let it sit on my counter
for 18 hours, it would turn out like this. You smell it. It’s acidic, slightly sour. If I use less water, it
could be less acidic. We’re going to use this
mass into our batch to make our dough much
more exciting, much more flavorful, much more aromatic. So in the book
“The Pizza Bible,” we talk a lot about starters. It’s the pizzeria of tomorrow. And it’s not really
the pizzeria of today. When you think of that
’80s and ’90s pizzeria of just flour, salt,
yeast, and water, things have progressed
quite a bit. So you’ve heard, I’m sure,
we’re from the Bay Area. Sourdough starters–
there’s ways to make this without using yeast. You can actually ferment it
over six days, seven days. But really, when I cook,
I really look for balance. I’m not looking
for a starter that really is in the
back of your mouth and all you taste is starter. I’m looking at a
complex dough that marries with the sauce, that
takes you to the cheese, and you find those ingredients. You know, when I make my
pizzas, and if you ever been to Tony’s Pizza Napolitana
or any of my other places, it’s always about balance. If it’s sweet, it
could be spicy. It’s salty. You always have this three to
four different flavor profiles. And you’re going to see
this in a couple pizzas we’re going to make today. So we have our KitchenAid mixer. We have 100% 00 flour. It’s my 00 flour. But it’s a high gluten,
high protein flour. A lot of times when you’re
making pizza at home, you grab all-purpose
flour, which is typically the wrong flour to grab. In the pizza business,
we don’t typically grab all-purpose flour. We look for a protein
that’s in a range of 12.5% to 14.6% protein. So when you’re shopping, when
you’re looking for a good flour to use, look for high
gluten, high protein flour. I added my flour
here, and we have a few different ingredients. We have oil in front of
me, malt, salt, yeast, and then we have our starter. We have two water mixtures, a
warm water mixture and almost an ice-cold water mixture. So we have our yeast here. I’m going to warm it up
in my warm water mixture. We’re going to do a
slow rise, meaning that am I going to make this
dough today and eat it today? No. Do I want to eat this
dough in 24 hours? That’s good. If I want to eat it in
36 hours, that’s better. If I want to eat it in 48
hours, that’s even way better. So why do I want to eat old
dough compared to young dough? One of the worst things you
can do in the pizza business, or when you’re making pizza at
home, is to make dough today and eat it today. Well, yeast feeds
on simple sugars. In our flour, we have
about 1% to 3% simple sugar already in our flour, meaning
that if our yeast goes in there, it’s going to
find something to eat and it’ll grow. So it’s already
present in flour. One of the rules of thumb when
you’re cooking at 450, 500, 520, like a lot of our home
ovens are typically at, we want to use a browning agent. Now what’s a browning agent? A sugar, a malt, a honey,
a molasses– something that can help your dough brown. It’s very important. One of the ingredients
that you tend not to see when you’re
making pizzas at home is a browning agent. Why am I using malt? I’m using a low diastatic malt. It’s a derivative of barley. It’s more natural. I like the flavor
profile better. Could you use sugar? Say I can’t find
any powdered malt. Could I use sugar? Yeah, and if you
were to use sugar, you could use about
three times as much sugar as you would malt. Malt’s pretty strong. So what am I going to do? I’m going to malt my flour. So I’m adding my
flour to my malt. I’m going to blend
that up a little bit. I just woke up my
yeast in warm water. Yeast lies dormant
when it’s cold. It wakes up when
it’s in warm water. But I want to wake
it up and then slow it down with cold water. Why didn’t I add my
malt to my warm water? It’s llike giving
the yeast a Red Bull. I don’t want to wake
up the yeast that much and get it going crazy. I want to actually let
my dough rise slower, and I want my yeast
to eat slower. So we have two water
mixtures, cold and warm. I’m going to add my
yeast mixture sure to it. I added this first because
if there was any leftover yeast in the bowl, I can always
wash it out with my cold water. Does that make sense? Sometimes you’ll
see a little bit. I’m going to add my
water, wait a little bit. I can put it up a little bit. Anyone have a spatula? Somebody grab me a spatula. So as this is mixing,
I could stop it, bring everything to the middle. Does anyone have a
KitchenAid at home? Anyone make their dough
by hand, old school? Kind of do both. I’m going to add the
rest of my water. So I added my water. I added my yeast. I have a few ingredients
left– salt– I’m going to keep my yeast
and salt away from each other. They don’t like each other. They actually hate each other. Salt can kill yeast, so I
like to keep them separated. We have our oil. I’m going to add
that at the very end. Oil is a binding agent. It emulsifies. I don’t want to add my oil first
because it won’t let my water hydrate into my flour. And that’s important. But I have this starter here. When am I going
to add my starter? My starter’s pretty tacky. I’m going to go ahead and
wet my hands, stop my mix, and go ahead and add my
starter in the middle. So why are we adding starter? I just said it a minute ago. Complexity, flavor–
you guys need a coffee. You guys aren’t awake yet. You’re just really hungry. I got on the road at 4:40
to see you guys today. Yeah, right? People thought I was nuts. I had to go to San Franscisco,
San Francisco to here. OK, so I’m going to
pick it up a little bit. I’m going to add– my flour’s
incorporating in my dough. Everything’s kind
of coming together. About two minutes– so while
this is mixing, any questions? AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE]? TONY GEMIGNANI: We’re
getting close to high 60s. With that poolish, with the
starter, we had over 65% hydration. It’s a good question. So in the bread world or in the
pizza world– mostly the bread world– we’re always trying
to get super hydrated. It’s cool to say I have
a 75% hydrated dough. What does that mean? More– I’m going
to add my salt now. The more water I
have in my dough, does it mean it’s
a wetter dough? It does, but not during
the baking process. During the baking process, if
you really want a crispy pizza, you want to actually
try to achieve more water in your dough. So you’re always trying to
get more water in your dough. It’s one of those things. As a baker, you’re always
trying to go up a percent or 2%. I just want from 65% to 66%. What’s hydration? What’s baker’s percentages? For example, I have
100 pounds of flour. And I say, make
it 65% hydration. That means it would
be 65 pounds of water. Does that make sense? If I said, make it 2% salt, you
always go to your flour ratio. So that means if
I had 100 pounds, I would put two pounds
of salt into that recipe. So this is coming
together great. I’m going to add my oil. I’m going to let it mix
for about two more minutes and then we’re ready to
go– maybe a minute a half. There’s not much. I could finish is on
the table, which I will. Any other questions? AUDIENCE: What type of oil? TONY GEMIGNANI: Extra
virgin olive oil. I’m not looking for one
that’s super-expensive, but I am looking
for extra virgin. Why do we add oil? One, it helps emulsify. It binds everything together. But I’m not really
looking for it for flavor, unless I’m looking for
Chicago-style pizza and I want 8%, 10%
fat or oil or butter. Then I may be looking
for a different type. All right, so we’re
pretty good to go. Could somebody grab this for me? Great, so everyone can see. So I’m looking at this and I’m
going to bring it together. It’s a little tacky,
but tacky’s good, right? So I’m finishing my dough
on a nice hard surface. I’m developing the proteins. But I’m not going to overmix it. I definitely didn’t
overmix it here. We didn’t do a 10 minute batch. But when I look at it, and
I’ll let this pass– pass this around, I’m making that
ball nice and tight. You can kind of feel
that and pass it around. Wet dough, wet hands. It’ll help. Sometimes you think that
you’re going to grab flour. I’m not. Want to throw this one at you? Ready now? That was great. Good job. Made me mess up. Wet hands. Sticky dough. You didn’t get that, did you? He’s good. He got it. He told me he was going
to get everything. AUDIENCE: So Chef Tony,
what kind of pizza is this dough good for? TONY GEMIGNANI: This dough
is good for Sicilian style. This dough is great
for a classic Italian. This dough is great for Roman. It can be great for thin. It’s great at 500, 550, 600. When you get to 650, you
don’t need a browning agent. So 500 to 650– I’m sorry. You need a browning agent. Once you go after 650,
then you need one. So for your home ovens,
this dough’s great for. So I have some dough
in front of me. But somebody wanted me to teach
somebody how to toss pizzas. Who wants to learn
how to toss pizzas? I need two volunteers,
two Googlers. What do we got? All right, buddy. Wanna come? I love it when they
wear blue or black. It’s perfect. Pizza guys wear white, geez. It’s OK. Who else do I have? MALE SPEAKER: We have
one right over here. TONY GEMIGNANI: Wanna come? OK. I might be able to get one more. Can you grab me some dough? MALE SPEAKER: Yeah, sure. How many would you like, Chef? TONY GEMIGNANI: Oh,
two– just one more set. If you put one more set
together, that would be great. What’s your name? SHENG: [INAUDIBLE]. TONY GEMIGNANI: Sheng? And? ALICE: Alice. TONY GEMIGNANI: Alice? Cool. It’s a little easier
on a harder surface. Let’s grab our dough
and let’s push it down. I made special
dough for you guys. I tripled the salt on this to
make it extra, extra durable. Don’t eat this one. Can have the one that fell, but
you don’t want to eat this one. OK, so let’s kind
of stretch this out. And I’m kind of digging
into it like this. So there’s resistance in this. It’s because of the triple salt. But I wanted to teach
you guys how to throw. So if you ever seen us on
the Food Network doing stuff, it’s triple the salt. We’re not that good. We’re good. But it makes it a
little stronger. All right, buddy we
need some help here. [LAUGHTER] Come on. They’re hungry. MALE SPEAKER: So Chef, how did
you get into pizza throwing? TONY GEMIGNANI: My brother
got me into the business 20, going on 24 years. Won’t give you that one. What did you do to this one? Jesus. Let me help you. Getting a workout at Google. You have this one. Let me teach you the basics. What hand to we write
with or draw with? SHENG: Right hand. TONY GEMIGNANI: Right
palm– want to go like this. Just like that. So instead of
going like this, we want to throw it up in the air. Pretty good. So palm, two fists. Pretty good. Palm, two fists. You’re good. Palm, two fists. She’s better than you. Palm, two fists. OK, more of a spin, though. See, she has the wrist action. Spin it on your fingers. Very hard trick. It’s like a basketball, sort of. Go across the shoulders. [LAUGHTER] Here, I’ll show you. Right hand, go to our
left, go to our right. Go across the shoulders. See, everyone’s watching, too. OK, the whip. Practice that. You’re making me look bad. I mean, I dropped
it first, right? OK, great. Thank you guys. [APPLAUSE] Here, keep your doughs. Keep your dough. So we’re going to
make a pizza for you. It’s a sausage and stout pizza. It’s not in the book. A lot of people were upset that
this pizza was not in the book. I kind of was developing
it a little bit after. So we have a dough that
has 20% Guinness in it. So you saw my water mixture? Let’s take 20% out and
substitute it with Guinness. So we have that in the dough. It’s honey malted, so
I have honey and malt. So I have two browning
agents, a little bit of spelt, whole wheat. Or inside the dough,
we have some semolina. So there’s a lot going on. This is a multi-grain dough. It has beer in it. There’s some sausage
that we’re going to add to this that has beer,
Guinness beer in the sausage. We have a Guinness beer salt
that we’re going to finish it. We have a Guinness reduction. I mean, it’s all about
stout and multi-grain and it’s pretty awesome. This is one of our
most popular pizzas at Tony’s, and this is the one
I’m going to show you guys. And we’re going to make one
that doesn’t have any– doesn’t have any of the sausage. We’re going to make a
vegetarian one, basically. So this is kind
of football-shaped and we rolled those out
into a football shape. We’re going to go ahead
and stretch it out into a football shape. So what does that mean? I’m going to stretch it out this
way instead of making it round. So when I look at this
dough, it’s pretty hydrated. It’s in the 70s. I’m going to be nice and
gradual on this dough. I’m going to be nice
and soft on this dough. I don’t want to de-gas my dough. This is actually
three-day-old dough. So the lighter you
are on your pizza, the lighter your pizza will be. If you see me on
the Neapolitan line at Tony’s, I’m
really soft on it. If you see me on the slice
line, New York slice line, I’m digging into it. Because that New York slice
should be really tough when you fold. It cracks, but it doesn’t break. And when you have a Neapolitan,
a true veraci pizza Napolitana, it should be like a
pillow, be nice and airy. So those two elements
are important. And when you look at
my lines at Tony’s, we have four pizza
lines, seven ovens, 13 styles of pizza with
different dough recipes. It’s confusing, but a lot of
times you’ll see one of my guys maybe help me from my slice line
coming on the Neapolitan line and they’re just
digging into it. I’m like, wait a minute. You got to be gentle with this. You got to treat it like a lady. So we have 100% whole milk
mozzarella, about six ounces. This is Grande mozzarella
that I’m using. It’s high in fat. It’s the best
cheese you can buy. There’s not really a
more expensive mozzarella in the industry. You see a lot of
places that are ranked the top pizzerias in the
industry, nine out of ten usually use Grande. You can find it. Some home users think
you can’t find it, but you can find it, in
some high-end grocery stores like Dreger’s,
which is kind of nearby. You can find it in some
other grocery stores too. So I’ll do the
vegetarian one first. We have some sauteed mushrooms. We have roasted peppers. This pizza I kind of
always like to go diagonal. It’s the way I like to top it. You’ll see the way I finish it. I always think that even my
cut will be a diagonal cut. Caramelized onions–
any vegetarians here? OK, good. I was going to say, if there’s
not, why am I doing it? No, good, good. We made special– we
made it to a point that we have some
vegetarian pizzas. It’s important. So sometimes when
you make a pizza, you think everything
has to go on before. Not really. In the pizza business,
and usually on a line, your finish line is as
big as your make line, meaning that the ingredients
will go on before and after. What’s great about this is
I use a lot of semolina. And these GI metal
peels are awesome, because everything
falls through it. So if you have a dirty oven, you
won’t really with this kind of peel. I’ll land it in that oven. We have it at what, 520? Trying to get it at 520. We’ll cook at six
minutes and six minutes. It’s pretty good time here. I’m going to cook it–
if you look at this oven, I have two levels, the
highest and the lowest. We have reversed
half sheet pans. We don’t have stones. If I were cooking
making pizzas at home, I would use a baking steel. It’s a quarter inch. Some of them are a
half inch or one eighth of an inch piece of
steel that you put in. The recovery time is great. And it gets hot. Or I would use my stone. Or if you didn’t have a stone,
I would use a reverse baking sheet. So we have those flipped
over in our oven. I have two. I just don’t cook on one. In the book, I talk about
cooking pizzas, starting on top and then finishing
on the bottom. So it’s always good
to have two elements. Does that make sense? Like in the pizza business,
when we put a pizza in, do we keep it there? We keep it there
about 80% of the time and then we move it to a
hotspot to finish that bottom. So we just don’t have
one dedicated spot. So a lot of people
just buy one stone. Really, you should invest
in two stones or two steels. So we have our other pizza,
our sausage, our onions. I’m going to add my
caramelized onions first. Remember, there’s no
borders on these pizzas. I’m really making this pizza
or decorating this pizza all the ways to its ends. And when it comes
to sausage, this is a sausage we make in house. I want to pinch in
the size of a dime. If I pinch in the
size of a quarter, it may not cook
in your home oven. So when you’re using raw
sausage, it’s important. I don’t like to pre-cook
really anything. You want that fat, that flavor
to really ooze into your pizza. It’s important. Do you have any
questions about anything? More tricks? AUDIENCE: 00 flour. TONY GEMIGNANI: Say it again? AUDIENCE: Where can
you buy 00 flour? TONY GEMIGNANI: You can buy
it at CentralMilling.com. You can see it at fgpizza.com. Even when you look
at a King Arthur, they have a Lancelot
that’s good. It’s a higher protein,
higher gluten. I would look for that flour. Giusto’s makes a good
high performer flour. They’re local. Central Milling is
one of the best, especially if you’re
into organics. They’re one of the
best flour companies. They may make my 00 flour that
a high gluten, high protein. So there’s a lot of
great ones out there. I just really recommend
getting one and not just using an all purpose flour. It’ll cook way better and
it’ll be all around better. So I have this
other pizza but I’m waiting to put this pie
on the bottom shelf. So I can just let it sit here. It’s nice to have a
surface like this. Not so good to open up a
pizza on a surface like that. So marble, granite, stainless
are the perfect surfaces for pizza. So I did talk about
finishing ingredients. And what does that mean? Well, we have
crushed red pepper. We have our salt, our Guinness
salt, some fresh mozzarella. We have our fontina
and some onions. We’re going to finish that
pizza with all these ingredients and then we have our
Guinness reduction, which will give it this
sweet, almost malty beer kind of flavor to it. It’s been about four
minutes, give or take. I’m going to check in. We’re cool. We have another
two minutes, then I’m going to take it, flip
it around, and then put it on the bottom. So we have Q and A, we
can do some questions if you guys have any. MALE SPEAKER: We’ve got a
question in the back over there on the right. AUDIENCE: It’s not a
really serious question. Why did you decide
to make it football shaped instead of round? TONY GEMIGNANI: You know,
it’s pretty hydrated. And usually, if a pizza’s
really hydrated and over 70, it’s harder to make in a circle. So I’ll say that we’ll make them
more– it’s easier to open up. It kind of goes down the routes
of a Roman style pizza as well. And Roman-style pizzas
are really hydrated. They could be thick
or they could be thin. So that’s the reason really. It’s a little tougher to
make it into a circle. Some people say they
want to– it’s artisan, and that’s what they want. It’s not artisan. It just means that they
can’t make it into a circle. I’ll admit it. Cool. AUDIENCE: Do you experiment
much with different beer styles in your dough? TONY GEMIGNANI: Yeah. I like the darker beers. I mean, I use Guinness for
this, but the darker beers go a lot further– Anchor
Steam, Anchor Porter. Yeah, some of those beers I
always tend to lean towards. I don’t want it
to just be tasting like you’re eating beer. I want it to taste
a hint of beer. I want to say, OK, there’s
beer in it, then the salt. I don’t want it to
be super, you know, like you’re drinking a bottle of
Guinness or a pint of Guinness. But I want to make sure that
you kind of know that there’s something in there. Does that makes sense? Cool. AUDIENCE: When you do a
long ferment like this, are you de-gassing
everyday, or do you just leave it for three days? TONY GEMIGNANI: I’m
letting it ferment. It’s a good question. So am I de-gassing? What does that mean? I got my dough, I balled
it, I put it in my fridge. Am I taking it out
and de-gassing it? Am I taking it out
and de-gassing it? No. I only have one really
bench rest, cut and ball it and then let it ferment
for two days, take it out. And one rule of thumb is
so see my pizza right here? I could pop, move this a little
bit, move my ingredients over. I’m going to turn it
around and move it right into my bottom deck. Does that make sense? You guys can see it. So I’m not de-gassing and
re-balling and reballing and de-gassing. I have a starter in
it that’s definitely going to give it flavor. I bench rest it,
meaning that after it was done mixing I let it
sit for about 30 minutes, cut and ball it. I’m going to put it in my fridge
for one day, two days, maybe three days. Am I going to take that dough
out and use it right away? No, I’m going to bring it
out to room temperature like I did here. And since I let it come out
to room temperature for three hours, well, I was in the
car for, like, three hours. So like five hours. One rule of thumb, don’t put
cold dough in a hot oven. So you want to bring that
dough up to room temp. AUDIENCE: I have a question. Some pizzerias boast,
like, a 1200 degree oven and cook for 60 seconds. What do you think about that? TONY GEMIGNANI: Yeah,
I have several of them. I cook at– my Tony’s Pizza
Napolitano, or Neapolitan, we took at 900 degrees. Then we have our [INAUDIBLE]
and we cook it at 1,000 degrees. Yeah, straight. I celebrate every
style of pizza. So when it comes to me,
if Chicago’s done right, if New York’s done right,
if Neopolitan’s done right, I kind of celebrate them all. I’m going to put
one now on the top. That other one has
about two minutes, and I’ll show you how to
finish that on the bottom. But yeah, you know, it
depends on what you like. Like I said, I
celebrate all of them, so I can’t say that I love
Chicago and I hate Neapolitan. I think if it’s done right,
then it’s pretty awesome. We have so many ovens. Kind of crazy. AUDIENCE: How do you decide
when to use pizza sauce? TONY GEMIGNANI: How do I
decide when to use pizza sauce? It depends on what I’m making. Sometimes you don’t need it. If you ever have white pizzas,
pizzas that have no sauce, they’re just as good
as pizzas with sauce. Sometimes my reductions
I use– I tend to I guess– how can you say it. When I use reductions a lot,
like a fig reduction or a fig compote or if I’m
using, like, an orange or if I’m doing a
maybe even a balsamic or if I’m doing a Guinness, I
kind of treat that as my sauce. So it has that–
that’s what I do. So whenever I use a lot
of reductions or compotes and stuff like that, I tend
to get away from the sauces and use that as my sauce,
if that makes any sense. Kind of like this one. I treat that Guinness
reduction as the sauce. So this pizza’s just about done. Turned out pretty
good for these ovens. Not bad. Nice bottom. Thing I always say is,
I got a great bottom. So something I always say. So I’m going to cut through
it, because I want to finish my pizza after I cut it. A lot of people will finish it
and make this beautiful pizza and then they’ll cut right
through it and ruin it all. I don’t want to do that. So I’m going to add
some fresh mozzarella. AUDIENCE: Are you
always [INAUDIBLE]? TONY GEMIGNANI: Yeah,
do I cut it immediately? That’s a good question. I do. I cut it right away and I
want to serve it right away. Especially Neapolitan– when
you see a Neapolitan pizza and you’re cooking it. You cringe when you’re watching
somebody eat it or they haven’t eaten it for like two minutes And it’s on the table
and they’re talking. Then it’s five minutes. Then it’s 10 minutes. And I’ll go grab
the pizza and then I’ll make them a new pizza. I’m all, here you go. I literally, like–
it bothers you, especially Neapolitan,
because that’s the pizza you want to eat fast and first. Sicilian style will
actually sit well. So we have a crushed red pepper. We have that beer salt. I’m heavy on the hand
with this beer salt. Some green onions–
we got some more here. ANDREW PERLICH: So Tony, where
can you get that beer salt? TONY GEMIGNANI: You’re
going to make it. ANDREW PERLICH: Oh, really? TONY GEMIGNANI:
Everything’s made. Come on. ANDREW PERLICH:
How do you make it? TONY GEMIGNANI: I’ll tell you. Hold on one second. So we have our fontina. So we use some nice
triangle pieces of fontina. It’s very geometrical
when you look at this. Cool. Then we’ll finish it
with the Guinness. If you went ahead and reduced
Guinness down, and then once you reduced it down and
it became somewhat of a glaze, you would add the salt
to it, sea salt to it, and keep cooking the
salt into the Guinness. Once it reduces down, you’ll go
ahead and have a nice Guinness salt. I’ll let you guys try it if
we have a little bit extra. So this is a Guinness reduction. When you reduce Guinness,
it’s really nice and sweet and malty. So this is a great pizza
you guys will love. There you go. So how are we looking here? About two minutes on top. And then we’re
going to finish it on the bottom for another
maybe four minutes. We’re almost done here. You guys have any questions? ANDREW PERLICH: Got another
question in the back over there. TONY GEMIGNANI: Anyone
want to try a slice? AUDIENCE: The bubble that
came up on your pizza there– TONY GEMIGNANI: Say it again? AUDIENCE: The bubble that
came up on your first pizza– is that something you
generally try to avoid? TONY GEMIGNANI: No,
not for this pizza. There’s certain pizzas
I tend to avoid it, like on my sliced pizzas. This one, I was so soft
to it, I expected it. If I didn’t see
bubbles on this pizza, it means somebody
was too hard on it. Why do we get
bubbles on a pizza, other than being
very light on it? One is that you’re
dough could be cold. Cold dough brings
lots of bubbles. This was a bubble that
really came from my hands. I wanted to have that. I wanted this pizza to look
thick but really kind of be nice and thin. Even when I look
at it here, it’s nice and malty and thin
and light and airy. I wanted it to be a
nice, aerated pizza. So it depends on the style. If there was no bubbles
on this, I open up my door at the restaurant,
I look in my oven and I see a sausage or
stout, I would go to the guy and say, you were way
too hard on that pizza. I expected to have bubbles. So it depends on the style. AUDIENCE: Did you have to
manipulate the dough like you did spinning it around
with all of them, or do different doughs
have different techniques? TONY GEMIGNANI: Different doughs
have different techniques. Sometimes you’ll roll dough
out if you wanted it thin. Sometimes you dock it,
which is little spikes that you’d roll over it for
thin crust pizzas, so the gas. Sometimes you want
a thicker rim. Sometimes you want a
thinner rim [INAUDIBLE]. So it really depends
on your hands. There’s a different
technique of slapping, which is a Neapolitan technique. Or if you’re picking it up off
and you’re stretching a 22 inch pie around the edges. So all the pieces have little
techniques that are important. Lot of times I get guys that
come in that have no technique and they’re just doing
all these different steps and it kills you. It makes you want to cringe. AUDIENCE: Can you briefly walk
us through a simple red sauce? TONY GEMIGNANI: A
simple red sauce? So a simple pizza sauce–
typically you don’t cook it. A lot of people think that
you have to cook your sauce. You don’t. Let’s say you have three
different types– a ground tomato, a plum
tomato, and a paste. Your paste is for sweetness. Your ground is your base. And if you want texture,
hand-crushed plum tomatoes. So does that make sense? If you just want it
to be ground tomatoes, something light, on a lighter,
like on a thinner pizza, that’s fine. If you’re looking for a Sicilian
style or Chicago deep dish, then I would be adding
that paste, definitely, to sweeten it naturally. And I would add crushed
tomatoes to make it more hearty. So the thicker the pie,
the thicker the sauce. The thinner the pie,
the thinner the sauce. Oregano, garlic, salt are the
three standard ingredients– pressed, garlic
not chopped garlic where you’re eating garlic. Just the essence of garlic. Torn basil leaves, salt–
you always have to have salt. Oregano is always nice. You can over-sauce your pizzas. You don’t want to
over-sauce your pizzas. I mean, over-spice our pizzas. We don’t want to
over-spice our sauce. You want to taste
tomato, and then there’s a little seasoning. When you make your sauce, you
always use it the next day, or about 6 to 8 hours later. You never make your
sauce and then use it, because you always taste
the seasoning first, not the tomato. It needs to set. Sauce has to set. It’s important, because
you’ll be all, man, this is way too salty. And you know what? In four hours, it will
be totally different. AUDIENCE: I have a question. I was wondering if you did any
dessert pizzas, and if you did, what are the differences in
the dough and ingredients? TONY GEMIGNANI: So do I do
any dessert pizzas, and are there differences in the dough? Not necessarily. You could do a special
dough recipe for desserts. But it’s really the
toppings that make it. I kind of found over the years
that you don’t need a specialty dessert recipe when you can
just do what you want on top. Dessert pizzas kind of
are like the first things you do when you
start making pizzas. Those are the things that
you start experimenting with, like Nutella or
bananas or triple berry and stuff like that. Yeah, I don’t think
you need to do anything special for dessert. My first book
“Pizza,” I wrote it. We had a special recipe for it. As I get into it now, I can
make any great dessert pizza just right out of dough. This dough is great if
you fry it and you make a zeppoli into it. It’s pretty awesome,
where you just toss it in powdered sugar or
sugar and a little cinnamon. So it’s great dough to fry with. AUDIENCE: Great. Thank you. TONY GEMIGNANI: This is the
master dough with starter. Any other questions? AUDIENCE: Do you have a
preference for coal or wood pizza? TONY GEMIGNANI: Say it again? Coal or wood? I like them both right now. Coal, you know, we’re the
only coal oven, I think, that’s out here. My New Yorker pie, or my tomato
pie out of the coal oven, it doesn’t really get
any better than that. But it depends. You get bored,
and so you’ll say, oh, this is my
favorite pizza now. You’ll start doing it a lot. Detroit-style pizza
is really great. If you guys ever
had Detroit style, we’re of the only guys
that has Detroit out here. That’s a great pizza. You should try that one
if you guys come in. So this one’s just about done. We’re just finishing the bottom. And we’re going to finish
it the same way we did here. So you guys got it? Pretty good? You’re all experts now? I’d definitely like to
thank everyone here. And especially Google. It’s my second
time here, but it’s been a lot of fun–
lot of great questions. And it’s a pretty
awesome campus, so thanks for inviting me. ANDREW PERLICH: All
right, everybody join me in thanking
Chef Tony Gemignani. [APPLAUSE]

41 thoughts on “Tony Gemignani | Chefs at Google”

  1. Very informative, Ty for the presentation! My Pizzas are gonna get much better from what I heard today.

  2. Avi K I don't like to argue with you because it's your point of view due to what the American media has been feeding you, but you are confusing two things here Islam and Arabs the majority of Muslims are Asians, Arab is a race among them are Cristian's and orthodox, they are just normal people just like you and I, the media played a great role representing them as terrorists to the rest of the world same as how it showed Vietnamese during World War Two in movies.

  3. I've been making pizzas at home for almost 2 years (without any degree of regularity) and I've been using Gold Medal unbleached all-purpose flour (next to King Arthur's flour, it is the most affordable and most widely available at my local supermarkets). NOT WANTING TO SPEND A FORUTNE on equipment or ingredients for what should be a simple and inexpensive, yet delicious pie, I just want to know if it possible to ADJUST THE DOUGH RECIPE or ratios (to make 4 separate pizzas, one for each of the subsequent/following days) to get it to mimic the results of a true Neapolitan pizza dough (at least as close as possible) in a natural gas home oven with some time in the broiler drawer (mine happens to be directly underneath the oven), without a pizza/baker's stone? I have tried Caputo 00 flour, but it's expensive for its weight and relatively difficult to come by, which makes it difficult to practice cooking with. I heard that Giusto's/Central Milling makes a line of 00 flour, but I've never come across it at any LOCAL supermarket. I should also add/state that all I have is a standard 13" diameter pizza pan…

  4. This Avi feller seems quite fond of the word "hipster". How's this for antithesis: you are not very hip yourself, hipster boy…. Say what you want about this guy, but you make no sense WHATSOEVER.. Go to Naples to learn how to make pizza? Yep. He did that. I'm not sure what you're going on about 'wanking yourself' (your stupid words-not mine), or Islam, but I'm trying to figure out what you have against thick eyebrows.. You DO realize those Italians in Naples are about as hairy as you can get…. You make zero sense… You think this guy should go to Naples but when he does he competes and wins…. But that doesn't impress you… What exactly would impress you?? The guy has a lot of respect-especially in Naples.. Another thing, modern day pizza is actually from Greece, not Italy. Italians do make great pizza, and like Anx One says, pizza in Naples is not like pizza here in America. We Americans love Italians, we love their food, and we especially love the pizza they make in Naples…. 11 time champ.. Makes a lot of sense to me. This guy is very impressive. He knows his shit…

  5. what do u mean by high gluten high protein flour, what should be the % of the gluten by, Should we look at the wet gluten or the dry gluten percentage

  6. most american flours are already malted. i think tony suggests malt to brown better. there's no free lunch tho. low diastatic malt powder changes the crumb and texture profile of pizza crust, it becomes more soft, and bagelly..

  7. when he says add 3 times more sugar if you can`t get malt , does he mean  regular granulated sugar added to the flour before mixing ?

  8. Tony is great. From Chicago deep dish, NY, Detroit, Sicilian and  Napoli  he has passion to make great Pizza for everyone and he does it all great.. If your ever in SF go check out his places. They are truly awesome. Be ready to wait  a while for a table at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. Last trip was 2 hrs!

  9. nice vid! – u could lightly saute' your sausage- much faster on the line- also better portion control- and removes the issue of raw sausage- may want to consider lightly zapping sliced belps- I saw a guy put a little hard cheese in the center of his pizza after sauce in Victoria years ago! ! nice vid! Been using beer instead of water last 10 years! How do you make your paste?

  10. Fuck You Google.. "Timeo Danaos et dona ferentes"… They are the evil that don't give a fuck about your privacy..GOOGLE KNOWS YOU BETTER THAN YOU KNOW YOUR SELF…

  11. sorry but his dough not the proper way to do it. it should be caputo 00 flour, yeast salt and water. that's it. no oil, no sugar, none of that shit

  12. I was interested in using the malt. I read comments about it being in flour and a trade off on the crumb. Probably valid, but in my home oven, I very rarely get good browning of the crust. I also watched another video with Tony; he said that dusting the dough with some semolina gives extra strength to a think crust. I tried that and it really worked good on my think crust.

  13. funny/excruciating how he talks about people ordering a pizza and not eating it straight away then no one eats the pizza he's just made fresh!!?!? o..O

  14. Thanks for the video. Lots of good tips. 🙂 It's better not to sprinkle flour on the top of the dough so it applies more evenly. 🙂

  15. Hi Tony. I love your videos. I forgot which video you mentioned the flour type to use on the pizza ware to make it slide easily. If you could refresh my memory I would be very thankful. 🙂

  16. Jesus, these people at Google are like brain-dead mooks . Maybe they can program the shit out of a website but they’re like brain-dead. They have the greatest mind in pizza at their disposal and they are asking the stupidest questions

  17. @16:03 I've got alot of respect for Jeff Bezos … Didnt know he dined like the rest of us, college campus style.

  18. What is wrong with them? He just said he cringed when people didn't eat his pizza right away and he drove all the way down there to teach them. And noone would take a piece of pizza. What stooges. I thought the group was suppose to be smart. He was giving them valuable knowledge and they were looking at him like he works at mcdonalds.

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